[Bill Buford] Ê Heat [philosophy PDF] Read Online è Outstanding on audio.
Over the last couple of years, I have been reading my way through some of the well known cooking books, which tend to be memoir than actual cooking Kitchen Confidential Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly, Yes, Chef and Blood, Bones, and Butter The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef come to mind Much of the writing is about the lives of these chefs and how they started cooking Then it follows their restaurant careers and the success that they have today Don t get me wrong, these books are great It s just that Heat takes the concept to a whole other level.
Buford gets interested in cooking in his 40s As you read about his experiences in the cooking world, it s clear that Buford is really interested in the art of cooking where he will likely always be a student of that art, rather than an owner of that art, or restaurateur Buford s book isn t about Buford as a kid, or his marriage, or how his family impacted his life it s about FOOD It s about life in a hot NYC kitchen doing prep work and then learning to run the grill It s about Buford s treks to Italy to work for nothing to learn under unknown cooks about making pasta or butchering a cow The book also provides some gossip around what it is like to work with Mario Batali and other greats within the elite cooking restaurant world Cool scoop Mario is a major boozehound He can drink 18 whiskeys in one evening He s also a bit of a pig, who likes to get dirty with the ladies Yep, sometimes what you think you see, is what you actually get There s even a bit of the Food Network and how it evolved since it first aired in the 1990s Buford doesn t let his love of cooking and slow food diminish his sense of humor He can rip a funny yarn, and the reader of the book really did an excellent job of capturing Buford s spirit.
Overall, this book set the standard of what people who love food should be writing about I highly recommend it.
I have to admit I picked this up because Anthony Bourdain was reading it on his show No Reservations and he wrote Kitchen Confidential This is the story of an editor for the New Yorker who ends up in the kitchens of Mario Batali it is an encounter of his experiences in the kitchen, plus a biography of Mario, plus a history of food all at the same time I really enjoyed this It took me back to my restaurant days, expressing the outrageous kitchen culture that you would not believe if you hadn t experienced it too Following are quotations that were meaningful to me I m not sure they make sense out of context Holly was offered a job It paid five hundred dollars a week, with five days vacation starting in her second year There was no mention of sick pay because it was understood you didn t get sick, which I d already discovered in the chilly silence that had greeted me when I d come down with the flu and phoned Elisa to say that I wasn t coming in that day In fact, without my fully realizing it, there was an education in the frenzy, because in hte frenzy there was always repetition Over and over again, I d pick up a smell, as a task was being completed, until finally I came to identify not only what the food was but where it was in its preparation One day I was given a hundred and fifty lamb tongues I had never held a lamb s tongue, which I found greasy and unnervingly humanlike But after cooking, trimming, peeling, and slicing a hundred and fifty lam tognues, I was an expert Give a chef an egg, and you ll know what kind of cook he is It takes a lot to cook an egg This just made me laugh because in my restaurant kitchen, the CIA trained grill cook could not poach an egg to save his life, and actually destroyed an entire dozen one day before the chef asked me to do it, and I only knew how because I d read about it In addition to the endless riffing about cooking with love, chefs also talk about the happiness of making food not preparing or cooking food but making it passage goes on in detail about the satisfaction of the aesthetic pleasure as well as other people finding satisfaction in what you have made The yelling, too, was not without its life lessons When Frankie was abusing me, he was always doing it for a reason He was trying to make me a better cook There are so many I could quote but they are too long one page describes this day in a Florentine kitchen where the author trips, splits his head open, and catches on fire, and it is so freaking hilarious I highly recommend this book.
Bill Buford Author Of The Highly Acclaimed Best Selling Among The Thugs Had Long Thought Of Himself As A Reasonably Comfortable Cook When In He Finally Decided To Answer A Question That Had Nagged Him Every Time He Prepared A Meal What Kind Of Cook Could He Be If He Worked In A Professional Kitchen When The Opportunity Arose To Train In The Kitchen Of Mario Batali S Three Star New York Restaurant, Babbo, Buford Grabbed It Heat Is The Chronicle Sharp, Funny, Wonderfully Exuberant Of His Time Spent As Batali S Slave And Of His Far Flung Apprenticeships With Culinary Masters In ItalyIn A Fast Paced, Candid Narrative, Buford Describes The Frenetic Experience Of Working In Babbo S Kitchen The Trials And Errors And Errors , Humiliations And Hopes, Disappointments And Triumphs As He Worked His Way Up The Ladder From Slave To Cook He Talks About His Relationships With His Kitchen Colleagues And With The Larger Than Life, Hard Living Batali, Whose Story He Learns As Their Friendship Grows Through And Sometimes Despite Kitchen Encounters And After Work All Nighters Buford Takes Us To The Restaurant In A Remote Appennine Village Where Batali First Apprenticed In Italy And Where Buford Learns The Intricacies Of Handmade Pasta The Hill Town In Chianti Where He Is Tutored In The Art Of Butchery By Italy S Most Famous Butcher, A Man Who Insists That His Meat Is An Expression Of The Italian Soul To London, Where He Is Instructed In The Preparation Of Game By Marco Pierre White, One Of England S Most Celebrated Or Perhaps Notorious Chefs And Throughout, We Follow The Thread Of Buford S Fascinating Reflections On Food As A Bearer Of Culture, On The History And Development Of A Few Special Dishes Is The Shape Of Tortellini Really Based On A Woman S Navel And Just What Is A Short Rib , And On The What And Why Of The Foods We Eat Today Heat Is A Marvelous Hybrid A Richly Evocative Memoir Of Buford S Kitchen Adventure, The Story Of Batali S Amazing Rise To Culinary And Extra Culinary Fame, A Dazzling Behind The Scenes Look At The Workings Of A Famous Restaurant, And An Illuminating Exploration Of Why Food Matters It Is A Book To Delight In And To Savor I read this book last year and it was deleted from my booklist by Goodreads Who naturally say this couldn t happen, I must have deleted it myself I ve never been able to prove before that the book was on my booklist until this one It s not on my list yet I read it, and I wrote a comment last October on a friend s, Karen s review I just came across this comment today The bit about eating pure pork fat close to the beginning really put me off It doesn t matter what fancy name you call it, nor that the pig ate apples and walnuts and cream for months before it was butchered, the fact remains that it is lard Disgusting, gross and all the rest I couldn t have written this if I hadn t read it But that wouldn t do for GR, because I still can t prove that I didn t delete it myself How can anyone prove that Btw the book was quite good Buford is full of himself, but not as much as Batali If you like chef stories this is about middle of the pack for interest and enjoyment.
A must read for foodies and Slow Foodies In one passage of the book, Bill Buford becomes preoccupied with researching when, in the long history of food on the Italian peninsula, cooks started putting eggs into their pasta dough He decides to go on a quest to Italy and meets with the cook at La Volta, a small restaurant in the town of Porretta Terme Mario Batali lived and worked here during an internship before going to New York and opening Babbo He considers the cook, Betta, and all the others associated with La Volta, extended family And so Buford sets out to meet her and find out about pasta and what inspired Batali.
Buford writes page 198 of the hardcover Betta s tortellini are now in my head and in my hands I follow her formula for the dough an egg for every etto of flour, sneaking in an extra yolk if the mix doesn t look wet enough I ve learned to roll out a sheet until I see the grain of the wood underneath I let it dry if I m making tagliatelle I keep it damp if I m making tortellini I make a small batch, roll out a sheet, then another, the rhythm of the pasta, each movement like the last one My mind empties I think only of the task Is the dough too sticky Will it tear Does the sheet, held between my fingers, feel right But often I wonder what Betta would think, and, like that, I m back in that valley with its broken combed mountain tops and the wolves at night and the ever present feeling that the world is so much bigger than you, and my mind becomes a jumble of association, of aunts and a round table and laughter you can t hear any, and I am overcome by a feeling of loss It is, I concluded, a side effect of this kind of food, one that s handed down from one generation to another, often in conditions of adversity, that you end up thinking of the dead, that the very stuff that sustains you tastes somehow of mortality.
Most food writing is shit It wallows in superlatives as brazenly as real estate hustings But really good writing about food makes the heart soar.
This is in the second category Partially because Buford is so craven, so desperate to GET what it is like being young, dumb and full of come in a kitchen stuffed with wise asses and borderline personality disorders than the average martini olive.
Lots of guys take up lycra and the bike for their mid life thingo Or get expensive mistresses Or foreign cars the same thing, really Buford rather sadly wants to cut it on the line in a four star restaurant He is known as kitchen bitch Happily for the reader, as a long time food obsessed New Yorker staff writer with serious chops sorry in the descriptive department, it s a pretty great ride for the reader Things I learnt from Bill Buford 1.
Mario Batali is deeply unlikeable.
Kitchens are the most unreconstructed misogynist bastions imaginable Still.
Italians love a gesture The thing that makes it ineffably charming, which gives it gravitas, is that they LIVE by such gestures Even if it makes their lives in some ways suck.
I was tempted to deduct points from Buford s giant schwing sentimental and gee whiz all at the same time which is some feat for an erection for artisanal production YES, food made by hand is better YES, frankenstein food production is a truly terrible side effect of globalisation But I ve heard it a lot And it doesn t explain how in reality non yuppies in urban settings can readily afford organic local meats and produce Other than to grown it, which is a HUGE leap for many folks People don t want to eat shit, but gee, nutrition is pretty good nowadays Have you SEEN the SIZE of the feet on sixteen year old girls I didn t deduct the points because this book isn t so new, and perhaps the Michael Pollan esque message was a bit fresher then.
Buford scores because he makes it fun instead of holier than thou You won t forget the Tuscan butchers he trains with in a hurry, either.
i got this to read on the airplane, and it did an admirable job for that precise purpose but there s one thing that s a real problem for this book About halfway through, he ends a chapter saying he has to leave New York to deal with personal demons Fine But he never mentions what they are were And the book is all under the guise of a kind of memoir If he s not going to tell the reader what those demons are, don t use it as a cliffhanger enticement to keep reading Not only is it supremely annoying, but it detracts and distracts from the rest of the book What the hell kind of editor would let that in anyway Hey, why don t you leave a tease in there about your personal life, and then never come back to it I m sure the reader would love that Especially since they re probably reading this book to find out about food than you So why not get the interested in your life for 5 seconds Assholes.
Wow, I enjoyed this way than I expected On than one occasion I ate lunch in my car so I could keep listening Hilarious, insightful, and mouth watering Buford s taste in food is just a bit different from mine I can t count the pounds of lardo that he consumes over the telling but his journey feels very kindred Amateur cook learns skills, travels to Italy, appreciates homemade traditional food Except he happens to be completely obsessive and surrounded by larger than life characters and a writer by profession.
I loved all of the elements that Buford wove together, but the only reason the book doesn t make the 5 star cut is that it did feel completely schizophrenic at times, like he couldn t decide if he was writing a memoir, a biography of Mario Batali, or a history of Italian Renaissance cooking It jumps back and forth thematically and chronologically, so you just kind of have to give up trying to follow along and take from it what you will Piles of bonus points for a book about meat with the utmost respect for the animals He even writes that he appreciates vegetarians because they are among the few people who actually THINK about meat Also, I get cranky when I read too much about locavores and the green revolution and won t someone pleeease think of the children blah blah blah So much better when someone recognizes traditional food as this powerfully conservative force He has a beautiful passage about how the essence of what he has learned comes down to handmade Indulge me in an extensive quote Italians have a word, casalinga, homemade, although its primary sense is made by hand My theory is just a variant of casalinga Small food by hand and therefore precious, hard to find Big food from a factory and therefore cheap, abundant Just about every preparation I learned in Italy was handmade and involved my learning how to use my own hands differently My hands were trained to roll out dough, to use a knife to break down a thigh, to make sausage or lardo or polpetone With some techniques, I had to make my hands small, like Betta s With others, I made them big, like the Maestro s The hands, Dario says, are everything With them, cooks express themselves, like artists With them, they make food that people use their hands to eat With the hands, Dario passes on to me what he learned from his father With the hands, Betta gives me her aunts The hands of Miriam s mother, her grandmothers The hands of Dario s grandfather, the great grandfather he never met, except indirectly, in what was passed on through his hands.
Miriam, who can t get a pastina to roll out the dough, no longer makes handmade pasta When her daughter takes over, will she roll it out by hand In Tuscany, you can t get the meat at the heart of the region s cooking, so Dario and the Maestro found a small farm that reproduces the intensity of flavor they grew up with How long will that taste memory last The Maestro will die Dario will die I will die The memory will die Food made by hand is an act of defiance and runs contrary to everything in our modernity Find it eat it it will go It has been around for millennia Now it is evanescent, like a season.
I had mixed feelings on this one It started out swimmingly I was howling with laughter as the author detailed the highs including the extracurricular highs and the lows of the Babbo employment experience I was shocked in a highly amused way by the author s description of Batali Surely, the soft spoken, well mannered guy I cheer for on Iron Chef America could not be telling his servers to pistol whip unruly customers with their unmentionables behind Babbo s closed doors If true, as a former bartender, this makes me like him even , if we are being honest Then, it got so sloooowww in the middle that I finally just skipped over several chapters near the end to see how it ended I think the book would have been easier to read if it had been divided into parts that detail the different phases Batali s professional education, the author s time at Babbo and the author s time in Italy As it is written, I found it disjointed and distracting I did really enjoy learning about Italy s food traditions and about different food preparations It made me very hungry.
I started reading Heat without any prior knowledge of Mario Batali I d never cooked from any of his cookbooks, or seen his show That said, the book was an interesting look at his life an absolutely crazy one filled with gluttony, extreme restaurant hours and seemingly never ending partying.
But the focus of the book is not only Batali although he steals the show, in my opinion Actually written by Bill Buford about his time spent in one of Batali s restaurant kitchens Babbo in NYC , Heat also tells the story of his progression from home chef and former New Yorker writer to that of a line cook and ultimately a pasta maker at the restaurant It also serves as a memoir of his own time spent in Italy learning to cook pasta and butcher, as well as a history of Italian food I felt that the most interesting parts were those chronicling his time in the kitchen at Babbo and telling Batali s personal story The parts that, in the end, were the least interesting to me were those detailing the regional gastronomy of Italy, or the history of pasta even as a person interested in food and cooking, some of these histories just went into too much detail and were too lengthy to hold my interest for example, a seemingly unending chapter on when and why cooks starting adding eggs to their pasta dough I was starting to lose interest in finishing the book, but what I found to be the most engaging part of Buford s personal experience working with one of the best butchers in Italy drew me back in Heat did inspire me to check out some Batali cookbooks from the library, because since I finished reading it I ve been having some incredible cravings for pasta with Bolognese sauce It s also another book in the same vein of those that emphasize knowing your food where it comes from, its quality, and really how to cook and enjoy it that seem to be all the rage these days If you A are really into Mario Batali, or are B willing to hand roll sheets of pasta until they re translucent, or are C considering buying a whole pig at the farmer s market and butchering it yourself in your apartment, this is likely the book for you.